Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Pearisburg, VA
May 15 and 16
Another small, poor Appalachia town. The people were very helpful and friendly however. I was able to arrange a slack pack shuttle with the owner of the Rendevous Motel. This gave me a 21.7 mile jump on the 93 mile stretch from Pearisburg to Daleville/Troutdale. It was also my first official 20+ mile day on the trail!
By doing this I was able to cut a 7 day leg down to a 5 day leg – much better.
May 17 and 18
1st day out of Pearisburg featured two tough climbs of 1,500+ feet of elevation gain. But it was a nice sunny day and my energy was good, so I knocked it out even though it took me nearly 11 hours to do the 16 miles carrying 5 days of supplies.
2nd day out of Pearisburg was only 12.4 miles, but in many ways a harder day. It rained all day long, was cold too. Temperatures were around 50 degrees. And windy to boot! A truly miserable day weather wise. Also had to cross some very treacherous cliffs in the afternoon that were very scary in the wet weather. I was very happy to get to camp in one piece tonight!
May 19
Did a short 10.1 miles today. Enjoyed the day very much. Observed two deer grazing by the trail for about 15 minutes. They watched me, I watched them – it was cool! I also saw my first rhododendrons in bloom today – also very cool. Nice weather today. Sunny.
Oh – had a very awesome thunderstorm last night that lit up the sky, rocked the mountains, and boomed the shelter. Very cool show to observe from a warm, dry shelter. Even better was the full moon that came out later in the night when the storm passed.
Another small, poor Appalachia town. The people were very helpful and friendly however. I was able to arrange a slack pack shuttle with the owner of the Rendevous Motel. This gave me a 21.7 mile jump on the 93 mile stretch from Pearisburg to Daleville/Troutdale. It was also my first official 20+ mile day on the trail!
By doing this I was able to cut a 7 day leg down to a 5 day leg – much better.
May 17 and 18
1st day out of Pearisburg featured two tough climbs of 1,500+ feet of elevation gain. But it was a nice sunny day and my energy was good, so I knocked it out even though it took me nearly 11 hours to do the 16 miles carrying 5 days of supplies.
2nd day out of Pearisburg was only 12.4 miles, but in many ways a harder day. It rained all day long, was cold too. Temperatures were around 50 degrees. And windy to boot! A truly miserable day weather wise. Also had to cross some very treacherous cliffs in the afternoon that were very scary in the wet weather. I was very happy to get to camp in one piece tonight!
May 19
Did a short 10.1 miles today. Enjoyed the day very much. Observed two deer grazing by the trail for about 15 minutes. They watched me, I watched them – it was cool! I also saw my first rhododendrons in bloom today – also very cool. Nice weather today. Sunny.
Oh – had a very awesome thunderstorm last night that lit up the sky, rocked the mountains, and boomed the shelter. Very cool show to observe from a warm, dry shelter. Even better was the full moon that came out later in the night when the storm passed.
Bland, VA to Pearisburg, VA
May 12-15
Really not much to report here. Scenery was so-so. Weather was so-so. Most interesting thing was I found myself in a pack of about 20 northbound thru-hikers all headed for Pearisburg at the same time. We’d gotten bunched together by a sever storm that caused almost everyone to take a zero day at the same time in Bland (when I was there with Jen and Evie). We then were all on the same 2 ½ day plan to get to Pearisburg. It was a fun group of people, most of whom I’d met along the way before, so I enjoyed traveling for a few days with a large “herd”.
Really not much to report here. Scenery was so-so. Weather was so-so. Most interesting thing was I found myself in a pack of about 20 northbound thru-hikers all headed for Pearisburg at the same time. We’d gotten bunched together by a sever storm that caused almost everyone to take a zero day at the same time in Bland (when I was there with Jen and Evie). We then were all on the same 2 ½ day plan to get to Pearisburg. It was a fun group of people, most of whom I’d met along the way before, so I enjoyed traveling for a few days with a large “herd”.
The Big Visit
11 & 12 May
Had a wonderful visit with my daughter, Jennifer, and my Granddaughter, Evelyn. What a special treat! We had dinner at Ruby Tuesday and went shopping for various supplies I needed at WalMart.
Evelyn talks much more than when I left, though much of what she says is in Evie-speak that only she understands. I love her so much! She walks much better than she did 2 months ago and also has many more teeth. Otherwise, she is the same beautiful golden child I left at Neel’s Gap. She cried when I said goodbye, and it broke my heart – again.
Oh well – this time it will be less than a month until I see her and Jen (and my wife) again.
Had a wonderful visit with my daughter, Jennifer, and my Granddaughter, Evelyn. What a special treat! We had dinner at Ruby Tuesday and went shopping for various supplies I needed at WalMart.
Evelyn talks much more than when I left, though much of what she says is in Evie-speak that only she understands. I love her so much! She walks much better than she did 2 months ago and also has many more teeth. Otherwise, she is the same beautiful golden child I left at Neel’s Gap. She cried when I said goodbye, and it broke my heart – again.
Oh well – this time it will be less than a month until I see her and Jen (and my wife) again.
Friday, May 16, 2008
Rural Retreat to Bland, Virginia
May 8-11, 2008
Total Miles: 579.2
Not much special about this 45 mile section of the trail. I took a zero day at the Relax Inn in Rural Retreat due to severe thunderstorms, but since I’d allowed four days for this section, it did not hurt my schedule. I knocked it out in 3 days of 14, 19, and 12 miles. Walked thru a couple of pretty farms, but otherwise, a boring walk. Due to the storm and the limited shelters, plus the threat of more severe weather, a large bunch of us thru-hikers ended up in a cluster of about 20 hikers for these three days. I was very excited about the upcoming visit with my daughter and granddaughter of course.
Total Miles: 579.2
Not much special about this 45 mile section of the trail. I took a zero day at the Relax Inn in Rural Retreat due to severe thunderstorms, but since I’d allowed four days for this section, it did not hurt my schedule. I knocked it out in 3 days of 14, 19, and 12 miles. Walked thru a couple of pretty farms, but otherwise, a boring walk. Due to the storm and the limited shelters, plus the threat of more severe weather, a large bunch of us thru-hikers ended up in a cluster of about 20 hikers for these three days. I was very excited about the upcoming visit with my daughter and granddaughter of course.
Damascus to Rural Retreat, VA
May 4-7 2008
Total Miles: Over 500 Miles
This stretch included climbing over Mt. Rogers (highest point in Virginia) and crossing the Grayson Highlands. Wow? What awesome scenery in this section. It was like being on the set of an old TV show like “The Big Valley” or “Bonanza”. Wild ponies roaming the range, beautiful green pastures with cows and bulls grazing, flowers, and flowering trees blooming. In more than one place, I stood and just slowly rotated, clicking picture after picture, in an attempt to try to capture the 360 degree magnificence of the landscape.
This is the country side that inspired songs like, “America the Beautiful” and “This Land is My Land”.
My words cannot do it justice. I hope the photo’s help. Certainly the weather Gods were with me this week providing 70+ degree sunny skies to match the perfection of the landscape.
Along the way, I took a 2 mile road walk detour into Troutdale, VA where I dined for dinner and breakfast the next morning at Jerry’s Kitchen and spent the night as the guest of the Troutdale Baptist Church Hiker Hostel, which was also arranged by Jerry. Jerry is a really sweet guy, in his 40’s I’d guess. Likely works seven days a week at his family restaurant/grocery store in tiny Troutdale. I suspect he dreams of one day being free to hike the A.T. I hope his dream comes true.
The following night was spent at the “Partnership Shelter” also known as the “Pizza Shelter” because it is collocated with the Mt. Rogers National Recreation Area Headquarters on a major road and local pizza places and other restaurants will deliver fool there.
Well, me and four other hikers had a major feast from the Tuscany Grill that night. I won’t go into all the details, but will say I spent $27 just on my portion and could barely crawl into my sleeping bag when I got done!
I also met another hiker named “August” – a 17 year Army vet – who had brought a small chess set as his luxury item. I won 3 our of 4 games with him, though all four games were closely contested.
On May 7, I rolled into the (tongue-in-cheek) 5 star Relax Inn in Rural Retreat where I would resupply and rest up for next leg of my journey.
Total Miles: Over 500 Miles
This stretch included climbing over Mt. Rogers (highest point in Virginia) and crossing the Grayson Highlands. Wow? What awesome scenery in this section. It was like being on the set of an old TV show like “The Big Valley” or “Bonanza”. Wild ponies roaming the range, beautiful green pastures with cows and bulls grazing, flowers, and flowering trees blooming. In more than one place, I stood and just slowly rotated, clicking picture after picture, in an attempt to try to capture the 360 degree magnificence of the landscape.
This is the country side that inspired songs like, “America the Beautiful” and “This Land is My Land”.
My words cannot do it justice. I hope the photo’s help. Certainly the weather Gods were with me this week providing 70+ degree sunny skies to match the perfection of the landscape.
Along the way, I took a 2 mile road walk detour into Troutdale, VA where I dined for dinner and breakfast the next morning at Jerry’s Kitchen and spent the night as the guest of the Troutdale Baptist Church Hiker Hostel, which was also arranged by Jerry. Jerry is a really sweet guy, in his 40’s I’d guess. Likely works seven days a week at his family restaurant/grocery store in tiny Troutdale. I suspect he dreams of one day being free to hike the A.T. I hope his dream comes true.
The following night was spent at the “Partnership Shelter” also known as the “Pizza Shelter” because it is collocated with the Mt. Rogers National Recreation Area Headquarters on a major road and local pizza places and other restaurants will deliver fool there.
Well, me and four other hikers had a major feast from the Tuscany Grill that night. I won’t go into all the details, but will say I spent $27 just on my portion and could barely crawl into my sleeping bag when I got done!
I also met another hiker named “August” – a 17 year Army vet – who had brought a small chess set as his luxury item. I won 3 our of 4 games with him, though all four games were closely contested.
On May 7, I rolled into the (tongue-in-cheek) 5 star Relax Inn in Rural Retreat where I would resupply and rest up for next leg of my journey.
Damascus, Virginia
May 2-3
The so-called “Friendliest Town on the Trail” and the home of the largest annual hiking festival “Trail Days” held med-May each hear. People have been talking about Damascus for weeks. Being the contrarian that I am, I’ve been lowering my expectations consistent with everyone else raising theirs. I was not disappointed. Damascus is a little bigger than Hot Springs, but otherwise similar. The A.T. runs right thru the middle of town. It has all the usual hiker stuff: hostels, B&B’s, outfitters (multiple in this case), a bank, a few places to eat, a Laundromat, a Post Office, and a Dollar General store.
I, however, found that Damascus had a harder edge, was a bit dirtier, and lacked some of the charm and naiveté of Hot Springs. Perhaps the success of the “Trail Days” experience has ruined the small town feel of Damascus that once was. In any case, I walked into town about 12 noon on a sunny Friday. The town was bursting with hikers and tourists. I was fortunate to get one of the last available beds in the whole town. I had to take two nights, given that it was the weekend. So, I ended up at the truly lovely “Victorian Inn”, a B&B in a restored 1906 home. The innkeepers were retired antique dealers from Phoenix, so the house was jammed with awesome Eastlake antiques. I felt like I was back in Woodruff Place!
With my extra day in Damascus, I did an 18+ mile slack pack, which allowed me to finally get totally back on schedule. I’d been 1-2 days behind ever since my first zero day at Fontana Dam.
Oh, Mrs. B&B made some great breakfast treats as well, so my committed effort to stop losing any more weight is starting to work. Putting weight back on while hiking the trail is not likely possible – but, I think if I really stuff myself in town at every opportunity, I can at least stop the downward trend. Then I hope to gain maybe 5 pounds or so during the two weeks I’m off trail in June. Other than the weight loss, I’m doing fine physically.
Oh sure, I have aches and pains every day. My knees hurt every night as I go to sleep – but not enough to keep me awake. My shoulders scream at me every afternoon starting at about 2 p.m. from the pack straps cutting into me. But, almost miraculously, I have not had a single blister, and my feet rarely, if ever, hurt at all. So, I am in much better shape physically than many other who are hobbling along beside me. And, I am very grateful for that!
The so-called “Friendliest Town on the Trail” and the home of the largest annual hiking festival “Trail Days” held med-May each hear. People have been talking about Damascus for weeks. Being the contrarian that I am, I’ve been lowering my expectations consistent with everyone else raising theirs. I was not disappointed. Damascus is a little bigger than Hot Springs, but otherwise similar. The A.T. runs right thru the middle of town. It has all the usual hiker stuff: hostels, B&B’s, outfitters (multiple in this case), a bank, a few places to eat, a Laundromat, a Post Office, and a Dollar General store.
I, however, found that Damascus had a harder edge, was a bit dirtier, and lacked some of the charm and naiveté of Hot Springs. Perhaps the success of the “Trail Days” experience has ruined the small town feel of Damascus that once was. In any case, I walked into town about 12 noon on a sunny Friday. The town was bursting with hikers and tourists. I was fortunate to get one of the last available beds in the whole town. I had to take two nights, given that it was the weekend. So, I ended up at the truly lovely “Victorian Inn”, a B&B in a restored 1906 home. The innkeepers were retired antique dealers from Phoenix, so the house was jammed with awesome Eastlake antiques. I felt like I was back in Woodruff Place!
With my extra day in Damascus, I did an 18+ mile slack pack, which allowed me to finally get totally back on schedule. I’d been 1-2 days behind ever since my first zero day at Fontana Dam.
Oh, Mrs. B&B made some great breakfast treats as well, so my committed effort to stop losing any more weight is starting to work. Putting weight back on while hiking the trail is not likely possible – but, I think if I really stuff myself in town at every opportunity, I can at least stop the downward trend. Then I hope to gain maybe 5 pounds or so during the two weeks I’m off trail in June. Other than the weight loss, I’m doing fine physically.
Oh sure, I have aches and pains every day. My knees hurt every night as I go to sleep – but not enough to keep me awake. My shoulders scream at me every afternoon starting at about 2 p.m. from the pack straps cutting into me. But, almost miraculously, I have not had a single blister, and my feet rarely, if ever, hurt at all. So, I am in much better shape physically than many other who are hobbling along beside me. And, I am very grateful for that!
Dennis Cove Road (Kincora Hostel) to Damascus, VA
April 29- May 2, 2008
I spent 2 nights at the Kincora Hostel. The guy that runs it is truly a trail angel. It’s run strictly on donations – suggested $4.00 per night, when the for profit hostels all charge $15.00 per night – and he gives free shuttles to town twice a day, plus free slack pack shuttles, provides laundry soap, shampoo, TP, razors, you name it!
In a supreme example of how life is unfair, I heard from another hiker that his wife has a terminal illness for which there is no cure. People said it was quite unusual that she spent so little time out in the hostel with us. The God and Goddess must have very special plans for Pat in her next reincarnation, I just hope that her husband somehow gets to join her too.
Speaking of Karma – on my last morning at Kincora, Miss Willow was just arriving. You remember her – she was one of the four that survived the bear attack with me and that later tormented me for snoring in another shelter causing me to get so mad I broke contact with her and hiked away. Well – completely unsolicited by me, Willow sincerely apologized from the heart for poking me repeatedly that night and expressed remorse. She said she was sorry and hoped that it had not broken our friendship. I told her I was very glad that she apologized because it really did bother me a lot being poked and jabbed when trying to sleep. I accepted her apology and said that of course we were still friends.
I fell much better about this now because the last thing I came out on the trail to do was to make enemies. Rather, I hope to find friends!
The hike to Damascus was otherwise uneventful.
I spent 2 nights at the Kincora Hostel. The guy that runs it is truly a trail angel. It’s run strictly on donations – suggested $4.00 per night, when the for profit hostels all charge $15.00 per night – and he gives free shuttles to town twice a day, plus free slack pack shuttles, provides laundry soap, shampoo, TP, razors, you name it!
In a supreme example of how life is unfair, I heard from another hiker that his wife has a terminal illness for which there is no cure. People said it was quite unusual that she spent so little time out in the hostel with us. The God and Goddess must have very special plans for Pat in her next reincarnation, I just hope that her husband somehow gets to join her too.
Speaking of Karma – on my last morning at Kincora, Miss Willow was just arriving. You remember her – she was one of the four that survived the bear attack with me and that later tormented me for snoring in another shelter causing me to get so mad I broke contact with her and hiked away. Well – completely unsolicited by me, Willow sincerely apologized from the heart for poking me repeatedly that night and expressed remorse. She said she was sorry and hoped that it had not broken our friendship. I told her I was very glad that she apologized because it really did bother me a lot being poked and jabbed when trying to sleep. I accepted her apology and said that of course we were still friends.
I fell much better about this now because the last thing I came out on the trail to do was to make enemies. Rather, I hope to find friends!
The hike to Damascus was otherwise uneventful.
Friday, May 9, 2008
Short Slack-Pack Day
April 29, 2008
Slack packed nine miles from US Hwy 321 south back to Dennis Cove Road and the Kincora Hostel. The advantages of this short day were:
1. Allowed me to spend the night at Kincora when the outside temp was going to drop into the low 30’s or upper 20’s (brrrr!!)
2. Allowed me to go over a nearly 2,000’ mountain climb carrying 6 lbs instead of 35 lbs.
3. Allowed me to truly enjoy a spectacular waterfall at Laurel Falls. Laurel Falls – you must see the
pictures – it is about 70’ tall and at least as wide. After three days of rain, the falls were nothing but raging white water – beautiful. Like Niagara Falls in miniature. Spent the afternoon, most of it anyway sitting around the hostel smokin’ and jokin’ with the other hikers, catching up on my journaling, and of course eating.
Tomorrow morning I launch for Damascus, Virginia. Plan for 2 ½ days. 
Should be there by early Friday p.m., May 2, 2008.
Slack packed nine miles from US Hwy 321 south back to Dennis Cove Road and the Kincora Hostel. The advantages of this short day were:
1. Allowed me to spend the night at Kincora when the outside temp was going to drop into the low 30’s or upper 20’s (brrrr!!)
2. Allowed me to go over a nearly 2,000’ mountain climb carrying 6 lbs instead of 35 lbs.
3. Allowed me to truly enjoy a spectacular waterfall at Laurel Falls. Laurel Falls – you must see the
pictures – it is about 70’ tall and at least as wide. After three days of rain, the falls were nothing but raging white water – beautiful. Like Niagara Falls in miniature. Spent the afternoon, most of it anyway sitting around the hostel smokin’ and jokin’ with the other hikers, catching up on my journaling, and of course eating.
Tomorrow morning I launch for Damascus, Virginia. Plan for 2 ½ days. 
Should be there by early Friday p.m., May 2, 2008.
Erwin, TN to Kincora Hostel: Dennis Cove Road, TN
April 25-28, 2008
Total Miles Hiked: 409.3
First day out of Erwin, did 14 miles including the brutal 2,500 foot climb over 3 miles up Roan Mountain: the last 6,000+ ft. mountain until the White’s in New Hampshire. I spent the night at the visitor’s center at Carver’s Gap. It had a good piped spring and a men’s and women’s rest room (chemical toilets). I tented in a fir pine grove. It was the first night on the trail that I spent totally all by myself. It was nice. And, I felt very independent and strong, tenting alone at over 5,500’ of elevation.
2nd day out of Erwin, I did nearly 14 miles hiking across the Roan Mountain Highlands: Round Bald, Jane Bald, Little Hump and Hump Mountain. I would say that this was the most beautiful stretch of the A.T. I’ve hiked so far. Great views, beautiful meadows, lovely farms below in the valleys, horses and cows grazing in the pastures. It was truly breathtaking. I will come back and hike this section again some day.
Spent the night at the Mountain Harbor Hostel. A lovely, lovely hostel in the loft of an old barn at a beautiful farm just 2/10 of a mile off the trail. The hostel owners were not very friendly, but they did shuttle us to a great little steakhouse for an awesome dinner meal and I loved their beautiful farm including the billy goats!!
Third day out of Erwin was a long, wet trudge of more than 18 miles from US Hwy 19E to Moreland Gap Shelter. An unremarkable day – just a long, rainy day.
Fourth day out, made the short 6 miles from Moreland Gap to Dennis Cove Road and the legendary Kincora Hostel. I hung around the shelter this morning until 9:30 a.m. hoping the rain would stop (it did not) then came on down to Kincora, got in about 1:00 p.m. Was able to shower and shave then hop the 2:00 p.m. shuttle into town for supplies and a huge Arby’s lunch. Kincora is run by a retired USAF Colonel and his wife (he retired in 1994). They bought the place 13 years ago specifically to open a hikers hostel. It runs on donations only. No alcohol is permitted and there is no TV and no internet. But, it has the warmest, most friendly, most peaceful vibe of anyplace I’ve stayed on the trail.
I’m going to do a slack-pack out of Kincora tomorrow and send a 2nd night here.
Total Miles Hiked: 409.3
First day out of Erwin, did 14 miles including the brutal 2,500 foot climb over 3 miles up Roan Mountain: the last 6,000+ ft. mountain until the White’s in New Hampshire. I spent the night at the visitor’s center at Carver’s Gap. It had a good piped spring and a men’s and women’s rest room (chemical toilets). I tented in a fir pine grove. It was the first night on the trail that I spent totally all by myself. It was nice. And, I felt very independent and strong, tenting alone at over 5,500’ of elevation.
2nd day out of Erwin, I did nearly 14 miles hiking across the Roan Mountain Highlands: Round Bald, Jane Bald, Little Hump and Hump Mountain. I would say that this was the most beautiful stretch of the A.T. I’ve hiked so far. Great views, beautiful meadows, lovely farms below in the valleys, horses and cows grazing in the pastures. It was truly breathtaking. I will come back and hike this section again some day.
Spent the night at the Mountain Harbor Hostel. A lovely, lovely hostel in the loft of an old barn at a beautiful farm just 2/10 of a mile off the trail. The hostel owners were not very friendly, but they did shuttle us to a great little steakhouse for an awesome dinner meal and I loved their beautiful farm including the billy goats!!
Third day out of Erwin was a long, wet trudge of more than 18 miles from US Hwy 19E to Moreland Gap Shelter. An unremarkable day – just a long, rainy day.
Fourth day out, made the short 6 miles from Moreland Gap to Dennis Cove Road and the legendary Kincora Hostel. I hung around the shelter this morning until 9:30 a.m. hoping the rain would stop (it did not) then came on down to Kincora, got in about 1:00 p.m. Was able to shower and shave then hop the 2:00 p.m. shuttle into town for supplies and a huge Arby’s lunch. Kincora is run by a retired USAF Colonel and his wife (he retired in 1994). They bought the place 13 years ago specifically to open a hikers hostel. It runs on donations only. No alcohol is permitted and there is no TV and no internet. But, it has the warmest, most friendly, most peaceful vibe of anyplace I’ve stayed on the trail.
I’m going to do a slack-pack out of Kincora tomorrow and send a 2nd night here.
Zero Day in TN
April 24, 2008
Had a peaceful, restful ZERO day at Uncle Johnny's Hostel in Erwin, TN. Going to the Post Office to mail my bounce box to Damascus, VA was my only chore. Otherwise, I chilled: took a nap, laid out in the sun, and tried to even out my hiker tan a bit, soaked my tired feet in the cool water of the Nolichucky River, etc. Oh, and I ate lots and lots of food. That is my 1st priority whenever I go to town: EAT.
I've already lost about 10 lbs. and I've got to be very, very dilligent about gorgining myself whenever I'm off the trail because it's simply not possible for me to carry or eat enough food on the trail to sustain myself. But, I think I've at least stopped losing weight for now -- we'll see.
Anyway, I'm feeling very good about getting started again tomorrow!
Had a peaceful, restful ZERO day at Uncle Johnny's Hostel in Erwin, TN. Going to the Post Office to mail my bounce box to Damascus, VA was my only chore. Otherwise, I chilled: took a nap, laid out in the sun, and tried to even out my hiker tan a bit, soaked my tired feet in the cool water of the Nolichucky River, etc. Oh, and I ate lots and lots of food. That is my 1st priority whenever I go to town: EAT.
I've already lost about 10 lbs. and I've got to be very, very dilligent about gorgining myself whenever I'm off the trail because it's simply not possible for me to carry or eat enough food on the trail to sustain myself. But, I think I've at least stopped losing weight for now -- we'll see.
Anyway, I'm feeling very good about getting started again tomorrow!
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