Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Flora

Pearisburg, VA

May 15 and 16

Another small, poor Appalachia town. The people were very helpful and friendly however. I was able to arrange a slack pack shuttle with the owner of the Rendevous Motel. This gave me a 21.7 mile jump on the 93 mile stretch from Pearisburg to Daleville/Troutdale. It was also my first official 20+ mile day on the trail!

By doing this I was able to cut a 7 day leg down to a 5 day leg – much better.

May 17 and 18

1st day out of Pearisburg featured two tough climbs of 1,500+ feet of elevation gain. But it was a nice sunny day and my energy was good, so I knocked it out even though it took me nearly 11 hours to do the 16 miles carrying 5 days of supplies.

2nd day out of Pearisburg was only 12.4 miles, but in many ways a harder day. It rained all day long, was cold too. Temperatures were around 50 degrees. And windy to boot! A truly miserable day weather wise. Also had to cross some very treacherous cliffs in the afternoon that were very scary in the wet weather. I was very happy to get to camp in one piece tonight!

May 19

Did a short 10.1 miles today. Enjoyed the day very much. Observed two deer grazing by the trail for about 15 minutes. They watched me, I watched them – it was cool! I also saw my first rhododendrons in bloom today – also very cool. Nice weather today. Sunny.

Oh – had a very awesome thunderstorm last night that lit up the sky, rocked the mountains, and boomed the shelter. Very cool show to observe from a warm, dry shelter. Even better was the full moon that came out later in the night when the storm passed.

Bland, VA to Pearisburg, VA

May 12-15

Really not much to report here. Scenery was so-so. Weather was so-so. Most interesting thing was I found myself in a pack of about 20 northbound thru-hikers all headed for Pearisburg at the same time. We’d gotten bunched together by a sever storm that caused almost everyone to take a zero day at the same time in Bland (when I was there with Jen and Evie). We then were all on the same 2 ½ day plan to get to Pearisburg. It was a fun group of people, most of whom I’d met along the way before, so I enjoyed traveling for a few days with a large “herd”.

The Big Visit

11 & 12 May

Had a wonderful visit with my daughter, Jennifer, and my Granddaughter, Evelyn. What a special treat! We had dinner at Ruby Tuesday and went shopping for various supplies I needed at WalMart.

Evelyn talks much more than when I left, though much of what she says is in Evie-speak that only she understands. I love her so much! She walks much better than she did 2 months ago and also has many more teeth. Otherwise, she is the same beautiful golden child I left at Neel’s Gap. She cried when I said goodbye, and it broke my heart – again.

Oh well – this time it will be less than a month until I see her and Jen (and my wife) again.

Friday, May 16, 2008

Places To Stay

On The Road Again

Panorama

Horses and Cows

Rural Retreat to Bland, Virginia

May 8-11, 2008

Total Miles: 579.2

Not much special about this 45 mile section of the trail. I took a zero day at the Relax Inn in Rural Retreat due to severe thunderstorms, but since I’d allowed four days for this section, it did not hurt my schedule. I knocked it out in 3 days of 14, 19, and 12 miles. Walked thru a couple of pretty farms, but otherwise, a boring walk. Due to the storm and the limited shelters, plus the threat of more severe weather, a large bunch of us thru-hikers ended up in a cluster of about 20 hikers for these three days. I was very excited about the upcoming visit with my daughter and granddaughter of course.

Damascus to Rural Retreat, VA

May 4-7 2008
Total Miles: Over 500 Miles

This stretch included climbing over Mt. Rogers (highest point in Virginia) and crossing the Grayson Highlands. Wow? What awesome scenery in this section. It was like being on the set of an old TV show like “The Big Valley” or “Bonanza”. Wild ponies roaming the range, beautiful green pastures with cows and bulls grazing, flowers, and flowering trees blooming. In more than one place, I stood and just slowly rotated, clicking picture after picture, in an attempt to try to capture the 360 degree magnificence of the landscape.

This is the country side that inspired songs like, “America the Beautiful” and “This Land is My Land”.

My words cannot do it justice. I hope the photo’s help. Certainly the weather Gods were with me this week providing 70+ degree sunny skies to match the perfection of the landscape.

Along the way, I took a 2 mile road walk detour into Troutdale, VA where I dined for dinner and breakfast the next morning at Jerry’s Kitchen and spent the night as the guest of the Troutdale Baptist Church Hiker Hostel, which was also arranged by Jerry. Jerry is a really sweet guy, in his 40’s I’d guess. Likely works seven days a week at his family restaurant/grocery store in tiny Troutdale. I suspect he dreams of one day being free to hike the A.T. I hope his dream comes true.

The following night was spent at the “Partnership Shelter” also known as the “Pizza Shelter” because it is collocated with the Mt. Rogers National Recreation Area Headquarters on a major road and local pizza places and other restaurants will deliver fool there.

Well, me and four other hikers had a major feast from the Tuscany Grill that night. I won’t go into all the details, but will say I spent $27 just on my portion and could barely crawl into my sleeping bag when I got done!

I also met another hiker named “August” – a 17 year Army vet – who had brought a small chess set as his luxury item. I won 3 our of 4 games with him, though all four games were closely contested.

On May 7, I rolled into the (tongue-in-cheek) 5 star Relax Inn in Rural Retreat where I would resupply and rest up for next leg of my journey.

Damascus, Virginia

May 2-3

The so-called “Friendliest Town on the Trail” and the home of the largest annual hiking festival “Trail Days” held med-May each hear. People have been talking about Damascus for weeks. Being the contrarian that I am, I’ve been lowering my expectations consistent with everyone else raising theirs. I was not disappointed. Damascus is a little bigger than Hot Springs, but otherwise similar. The A.T. runs right thru the middle of town. It has all the usual hiker stuff: hostels, B&B’s, outfitters (multiple in this case), a bank, a few places to eat, a Laundromat, a Post Office, and a Dollar General store.

I, however, found that Damascus had a harder edge, was a bit dirtier, and lacked some of the charm and naiveté of Hot Springs. Perhaps the success of the “Trail Days” experience has ruined the small town feel of Damascus that once was. In any case, I walked into town about 12 noon on a sunny Friday. The town was bursting with hikers and tourists. I was fortunate to get one of the last available beds in the whole town. I had to take two nights, given that it was the weekend. So, I ended up at the truly lovely “Victorian Inn”, a B&B in a restored 1906 home. The innkeepers were retired antique dealers from Phoenix, so the house was jammed with awesome Eastlake antiques. I felt like I was back in Woodruff Place!

With my extra day in Damascus, I did an 18+ mile slack pack, which allowed me to finally get totally back on schedule. I’d been 1-2 days behind ever since my first zero day at Fontana Dam.

Oh, Mrs. B&B made some great breakfast treats as well, so my committed effort to stop losing any more weight is starting to work. Putting weight back on while hiking the trail is not likely possible – but, I think if I really stuff myself in town at every opportunity, I can at least stop the downward trend. Then I hope to gain maybe 5 pounds or so during the two weeks I’m off trail in June. Other than the weight loss, I’m doing fine physically.

Oh sure, I have aches and pains every day. My knees hurt every night as I go to sleep – but not enough to keep me awake. My shoulders scream at me every afternoon starting at about 2 p.m. from the pack straps cutting into me. But, almost miraculously, I have not had a single blister, and my feet rarely, if ever, hurt at all. So, I am in much better shape physically than many other who are hobbling along beside me. And, I am very grateful for that!

Dennis Cove Road (Kincora Hostel) to Damascus, VA

April 29- May 2, 2008

I spent 2 nights at the Kincora Hostel. The guy that runs it is truly a trail angel. It’s run strictly on donations – suggested $4.00 per night, when the for profit hostels all charge $15.00 per night – and he gives free shuttles to town twice a day, plus free slack pack shuttles, provides laundry soap, shampoo, TP, razors, you name it!

In a supreme example of how life is unfair, I heard from another hiker that his wife has a terminal illness for which there is no cure. People said it was quite unusual that she spent so little time out in the hostel with us. The God and Goddess must have very special plans for Pat in her next reincarnation, I just hope that her husband somehow gets to join her too.

Speaking of Karma – on my last morning at Kincora, Miss Willow was just arriving. You remember her – she was one of the four that survived the bear attack with me and that later tormented me for snoring in another shelter causing me to get so mad I broke contact with her and hiked away. Well – completely unsolicited by me, Willow sincerely apologized from the heart for poking me repeatedly that night and expressed remorse. She said she was sorry and hoped that it had not broken our friendship. I told her I was very glad that she apologized because it really did bother me a lot being poked and jabbed when trying to sleep. I accepted her apology and said that of course we were still friends.

I fell much better about this now because the last thing I came out on the trail to do was to make enemies. Rather, I hope to find friends!

The hike to Damascus was otherwise uneventful.

Friday, May 9, 2008

Signing Time Two

Signing Time One

Short Slack-Pack Day



April 29, 2008

Slack packed nine miles from US Hwy 321 south back to Dennis Cove Road and the Kincora Hostel. The advantages of this short day were:
1. Allowed me to spend the night at Kincora when the outside temp was going to drop into the low 30’s or upper 20’s (brrrr!!)
2. Allowed me to go over a nearly 2,000’ mountain climb carrying 6 lbs instead of 35 lbs.
3. Allowed me to truly enjoy a spectacular waterfall at Laurel Falls. Laurel Falls – you must see the pictures – it is about 70’ tall and at least as wide. After three days of rain, the falls were nothing but raging white water – beautiful. Like Niagara Falls in miniature. Spent the afternoon, most of it anyway sitting around the hostel smokin’ and jokin’ with the other hikers, catching up on my journaling, and of course eating.

Tomorrow morning I launch for Damascus, Virginia. Plan for 2 ½ days. Should be there by early Friday p.m., May 2, 2008.

Erwin, TN to Kincora Hostel: Dennis Cove Road, TN

April 25-28, 2008
Total Miles Hiked: 409.3

First day out of Erwin, did 14 miles including the brutal 2,500 foot climb over 3 miles up Roan Mountain: the last 6,000+ ft. mountain until the White’s in New Hampshire. I spent the night at the visitor’s center at Carver’s Gap. It had a good piped spring and a men’s and women’s rest room (chemical toilets). I tented in a fir pine grove. It was the first night on the trail that I spent totally all by myself. It was nice. And, I felt very independent and strong, tenting alone at over 5,500’ of elevation.

2nd day out of Erwin, I did nearly 14 miles hiking across the Roan Mountain Highlands: Round Bald, Jane Bald, Little Hump and Hump Mountain. I would say that this was the most beautiful stretch of the A.T. I’ve hiked so far. Great views, beautiful meadows, lovely farms below in the valleys, horses and cows grazing in the pastures. It was truly breathtaking. I will come back and hike this section again some day.

Spent the night at the Mountain Harbor Hostel. A lovely, lovely hostel in the loft of an old barn at a beautiful farm just 2/10 of a mile off the trail. The hostel owners were not very friendly, but they did shuttle us to a great little steakhouse for an awesome dinner meal and I loved their beautiful farm including the billy goats!!

Third day out of Erwin was a long, wet trudge of more than 18 miles from US Hwy 19E to Moreland Gap Shelter. An unremarkable day – just a long, rainy day.

Fourth day out, made the short 6 miles from Moreland Gap to Dennis Cove Road and the legendary Kincora Hostel. I hung around the shelter this morning until 9:30 a.m. hoping the rain would stop (it did not) then came on down to Kincora, got in about 1:00 p.m. Was able to shower and shave then hop the 2:00 p.m. shuttle into town for supplies and a huge Arby’s lunch. Kincora is run by a retired USAF Colonel and his wife (he retired in 1994). They bought the place 13 years ago specifically to open a hikers hostel. It runs on donations only. No alcohol is permitted and there is no TV and no internet. But, it has the warmest, most friendly, most peaceful vibe of anyplace I’ve stayed on the trail.

I’m going to do a slack-pack out of Kincora tomorrow and send a 2nd night here.

Zero Day in TN

April 24, 2008

Had a peaceful, restful ZERO day at Uncle Johnny's Hostel in Erwin, TN. Going to the Post Office to mail my bounce box to Damascus, VA was my only chore. Otherwise, I chilled: took a nap, laid out in the sun, and tried to even out my hiker tan a bit, soaked my tired feet in the cool water of the Nolichucky River, etc. Oh, and I ate lots and lots of food. That is my 1st priority whenever I go to town: EAT.

I've already lost about 10 lbs. and I've got to be very, very dilligent about gorgining myself whenever I'm off the trail because it's simply not possible for me to carry or eat enough food on the trail to sustain myself. But, I think I've at least stopped losing weight for now -- we'll see.

Anyway, I'm feeling very good about getting started again tomorrow!

Songs About Me

No Bears Here

More Hikin' Buddies

Thursday, May 8, 2008

Slack Packing in Tennessee

April 23, 2008

Did a 19.1 mile “slack pack” southbound from Iron Mountain Gap back to Uncle Johnny’s Hostel in Erwin, TN. “Slack Packing” is were someone drives you to a point further north on the A.T. You then walk backward to your starting point, carrying only a daypack with water, food for the day, and minimal essentials (map, first aid kit, etc.). It’s a great way to get in some relatively easy miles, though many “purists” frown on the practice.

I really enjoyed my day of slack-packing and even out performed the 20 and 30 something’s that went with me for the day. We got to the trailhead at 8:35 a.m., and I was the first one back to the hostel at 5:15 p.m. It cost $16 for this service, but was well worth it to me!

Hogback Ridge, NC to Erwin, TN

April 21 & 22, 2008

Did a 10.2 mile day on the 21st with my bud Rain Fly, up and over the big bump of this stretch – Bald Mountain. It was another cold miserable day, but at least it didn’t rain. On April 22nd, the weather improved. We got blue sky in the morning and I decided to stretch my legs and make the fine 16.9 miles all the way into Erwin, Tennessee. I arrived at Uncle Johnny’s Hiker Hostel at 5:30 p.m.- Just enough time for a quick show and still got on the 6:00 p.m. shuttle to dinner at the Mexican restaurant in town. The perfect end to a hard day’s hike.

Flint Mtn. Shelter to Hogback Ridge Shelter, NC

20 April: Total Miles: 311.8

After getting no sleep last night, I only hiked 8.8 miles today to the next shelter. It was another bleak cold (45 degree) rainy day. So, not great loss. Spent the afternoon hanging out with my new buddy Rain Fly from New Orleans.

Little Laurel Shelter, NC to Flint Mtn Shelter, NC

19 April: Total Miles: 303.0

Hiked 12.7 miles today with Gentleman Jack and Willow. Included going over “The Cliffs”, a rugged area approx. 2 miles long that was supposed to be much like the White Mountains of New Hampshire: very rugged rocks, much hand-over-hand climbing, a lot of bouldering, very tough going.

It was cold and rainy most of the day, including getting drenched the last ½ mile before the shelter. The shelter was full on a rainy night. Willow slept in between Gentleman Jack and me. Usually she tents, but not tonight because of the rain. Well, I snore, so Willow was hitting me in the face every hour (I do not exaggerate) to stop me from snoring. I got like NO SLEEP. It made me very angry – but I let it go, though I decided to break contact with Gentleman Jack and Willow the next day.

It’s one thing to smack someone who snores if he/she gives you permission to do so. But, to just assume the right to hit someone else in the face, and to do so repeatedly is bullshit! If Willow had been a man, there would have been a fistfight in the shelter last night.

(NOTE FROM WIFE: It is true, the Colonel is snores quite horribly. I often sleep in another room with a pillow over my head.)

Spring Mt Shelter to Little Laurel Shelter, NC

18 April: Total Miles: 290.3

Started the day with the intention of going 15.4 miles to Jerry Cabin Shelter and got a reasonably early start at 8:15 a.m. But, that all changed in a good way, when I got to Allen Gap, about 4 miles in at around 10:00 a.m. There at the road crossing was a sign saying “Trail Magic – 350 yards East. Well worth the walk – Don’t Miss It! 6:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.”

Well, I followed the signs to a lovely modern log cabin home on the mountainside, ¼ mile down the road. Once there, the owners, (1999 thru hikers) “Hercules” and “F.A.L.” served me and my buddies a 3-course meal of orange juice, Belgian waffles, pork stew, and for dessert, a brownie sundae. Consuming this enormous meal and sharing fellowship took 2 hours of the day.

As a result, I modified my plans and took a short day stopping after only 8.6 miles. But, I’ve been worried about loosing too much weight in recent days, and at least for today, I know I reversed the trend. I’ll log some longer miles tomorrow.

Hot Springs, NC to Spring Mountain Shelter, NC

17 April: Total Miles: 281.7

Hiked 11.0 miles today. Started out alone. Beautiful trail all day starting with about a ½ mile walk along the French Broad Rive, then climbing up the cliffs overlooking Hot Springs. I took some great pictures of both.

Later in the day, I saw many pretty wild flowers along the trail – got some pix of these as well. It got quite warm, perhaps 75 degrees. Then I caught up with my Bear Attack buddies Willow and Gentleman Jack.

Got into camp about 5 p.m. and had a nice relaxing evening. It was by far the warmest night out on the trail. I don’t think it ever went below 50 degrees.

Cold and Miserable





The G-Town Colonel had been complaining about being cold and wet. Here are some pix of what he has been hiking through.


Bear Attack Pix

The mail does not always keep up with actual happenings on the trail. So, here are the pics of the bear attack. Note the paw prints in the snow, the broken tree limb, and the claw marks on the tree trunk.